Today I listened to Christmas music while I recorded some interview notes from last week, and it occurred to me that this is pretty much the only preparation for Christmas that I've had. Senegal being a Muslim country, you're unlikely to encounter Christmas music in stores and on the radio, after-Thanksgiving Christmas shopping sales, stocking stuffer commercials on TV, Christmas movies on TV, or even decorations and painted windows in shops. And by unlikely, I mean it just won't be there, although there is one shop near SIT (frequented by non-locals, I should add) that has had its windows decked out for Christmas and 2008 for several weeks, which is just jarring beside the sandy streets and hot weather in Dakar. When I get back to the US (in three weeks!), I think I'll be ready to see America's more garish displays of holiday cheer once more.
Yesterday I found out that you can get a chocolate and banana sandwich on French bread for about 25 cents from a little kiosk near my boarding house (where I've gotten used to sheep on the roof and doing my laundry on the roof by hand and all the sounds of the city). And a delicious lunch for a dollar in a little restaurant/shack near school. The woman who runs it is really friendly and doesn't seem to speak much French, and it's frequented only by Senegalese. Every weekday she makes two dishes you can choose from, and then you get to drink tap water (and not get sick! - because I've been here for a long time now) and try to speak Wolof with the other patrons.
Senegal is fun once you've been here a while and know your way around and can drink the water without getting sick and aren't afraid of street food. It was good before, but being able to do more authentic things - like eating lunch in a shack at a communal table - makes it much better.
I should add that ceebu jen - rice and fish - is the national dish of Senegal and what pretty much everyone eats for lunch. 500 CFA is a dollar in Senegalese currency. And getting really good ceebu jen for 500 CFA - well, that's a good reason to come to Senegal in the first place.
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